Cartier Tortue Perpetual Calendar watch was not the first choice for this report. Both the Calibre de Cartier watch and the Tortue perpetual calendar watch with cutout visible dials have entered our horizons. Frankly, we had decided to show the Calibre de Cartier watch, because we were impressed by the charm released by this watch. However, when we looked at the wearing effect of these watches, some unexpected results were produced, and the Tortue watch was striking.
In fact, style is a crucial factor. Of course, the Cartier Tortue Perpetual Calendar is a masterpiece of fine watchmaking craftsmanship, perfectly embodying Cartier’s unparalleled elegance. For me, the biggest feature of this watch is its asymmetrical unique shape.
Cartier launched the Tortue series for women in 1912, with beautiful arc curves and elegant dial designs. In 1928, Cartier launched the first Tortue series men’s watch. Obviously, the elegant arc shape is also attractive to men.
The following is Cartier’s first Tortue series men’s watch launched in 1928. This single twist chronograph fully reflects the tough beauty of fashionable men. It reminds of the powerful but elegant female warrior in the artwork of illustrator Boris & middot; Valisjo. Described by Cartier’s iconic words, this watch shows the femininity of a woman, combined with advanced watchmaking technology, we see the traditional theme of Cartier & mdash; & mdash; chimera.
This watch is equipped with a concealed folding clasp and a thick leather strap, which makes the adjustment of the lugs slightly inconvenient.
The crown is inlaid with a faceted sapphire, which is the hallmark of Cartier’s fine watchmaking collection. A button on the side of the crown adjusts the month.
Let us introduce the size and wearing effect of this watch. The case size is 45.6×51 mm, and it is undoubtedly a large beauty. When it is worn on the wrist, all grace comes out from the mountains. Although the slender wrist may feel slightly heavy, it does not look awkward. The point is, once it catches everyone’s eye, no one will find it flashy.
Cartier’s timing device has always been superb and original. Cartier brand art and strategy director Pierre Rainero takes the mysterious clocks of the early 20th century as an example. The difference between every product made by Cartier is from a universal fashion concept , Boldly blending the skills of jewelry production to meet the wishes of distinguished customers, making them the most elegant and noble gentlemen and ladies in the world. & rdquo;
Cartier Tortue series perpetual calendar watch uses Cartier 9422MC self-winding mechanical movement, with perpetual calendar complex functions, making its strength cannot be underestimated. We can see the newly designed retrograde bridge board, which also proves that Cartier is committed to creating a more precise movement, not a replica based on the original.
The large hands at the center of the dial indicate the date, while the month and year are displayed on a small dial at 12 o’clock, following the traditional design style.
Note that the hour and minute hands seem to be suspended on the dial, with a simple and stylish shape that exudes magic.
Perpetual calendar mechanical watches have a complex mechanical system that can accurately display a variety of different calendar functions, including the day of the week, date, month, moon phase and leap year. The difference between the perpetual calendar watch and date function and other almanacs is that after the watch function is set, it can automatically adjust the date change of each month, and can distinguish 28 days, 29 days, 30 days, and 31 days of different months. day. This calendar function is only possible with mechanical systems.
This close-up close-up shows the details of the escapement. Note the Geneva ripples on the bridges and the pearl patterns under the balance wheel.
The two buttons on the left and the middle are used to adjust the date and day, respectively.
The buttons on the side of the crown are used to adjust the month, and the buttons at 10 and 9 o’clock are used to adjust the date and day, respectively. As mentioned above, in order to correct the leap year instruction, the customer needs to adjust the month dial. In addition, due to the independent display of various time functions, the adjustment of the date, week and month on the watch by the customer will not affect each other.
This photo shows the mainspring of the movement, which is placed on the side of the crown. Note the movement number on the rotor.
We can’t see the part of the Cartier 9422MC movement that controls the month (sometimes called ‘four-year wheel’), even on the hollow dial, but the long teeth of this drive gear and date wheel are at 12 o’clock Below the month and leap year counter.
The movement picture provided by Cartier shows us the four-year wheel at 12 o’clock. In this particular photo, you can see the calendar mechanism on the side of the dial. On the Tortue perpetual calendar watch with a perforated visible dial, you can see the movement of the movement, but this watch does not show this part of the details.
It is also worth mentioning that Cartier uses the bracket system on the jumping week counter. The manufacturing process shows that this week’s wheel is a typical 7-tooth star wheel, which is fixed on the bracket. Of course, this is the mechanical structure in which jump-back systems are commonly used.
Speaking of the time and calendar display, the calm and low-key part of this part of the details also surprised us. The design of the sister hollowed out dial is too complicated, deviating from the classic and simple date display style, and Arabic numerals are printed around the dial. As you can see, the date dial of this watch uses the traditional Roman numerals to display the time.
In addition, we noticed that the watch’s calendar system can be adjusted individually. It is worth mentioning that the calendar system of this watch can only be corrected forward, and cannot be adjusted between 8 pm and 5 am, because during this time, the calendar mechanism is fully operational. Cartier has designed a special tool for this calendar button. Cartier’s store staff also suggested that transparent tape should be wrapped around the tool to avoid scratching the watch.
In terms of scratches and maintenance of the dial, it should be noted that the platinum dial of this watch is not rhodium-plated. Cartier said that the rhodium plating process is not applied to watches in the fine watchmaking series. Of course, the rose gold dial is not rhodium-plated.
Regarding the reading and use of the perpetual calendar, this watch does not use a drag system. In terms of date timing, the hands start moving one hour before the date changes. Other timing indicators have a similar operating system. Cartier calls this Tortue perpetual calendar watch ‘semi-real-time counter’, which is the same design as other perpetual calendar watches.
Note the countersunk head screws and ruby bearings, these details testify to the master craftsmanship of the watchmaker.
Watch technical parameters
Case dimensions: 45.6 mm x 51 mm
Case: 18K rose gold
Crown: 18K rose gold octagonal crown set with a delicate sapphire
Table mirror: sapphire crystal
Case back: Sapphire crystal transparent glass case back
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: brown alligator leather (rose gold dial). Black alligator leather with white gold dial.
Folding clasp: 18K rose gold double-ended adjustable clasp
Movement: Cartier automatic winding mechanical movement with perpetual calendar complex functions; diameter: 11 1/2 cents (about 25.60 mm); total diameter: 14 1/4 cents (about 32 mm); thickness of the movement: 5.88mm; contains 33 jewels and 293 parts; balance frequency: 28800 times / hour; power reserve: about 52 hours; movement with independent number